Hair Care

When clients make frequent or extreme color changes, rely on these techniques.

Redken national artist and owner of Brilla, A Salon by Alma Gonzales (located in Salons by JC, Highland Park, IL), who is available to teach at salon suite buildings throughout IL, often gets asked how to handle extreme color changes. “The most important thing,” she says, “is to maintain the integrity of the hair.” Her front-line defenses are pH-Bonder and deep conditioning treatments that allow clients to continue to color play.

Frequent Fashion Color Changes

Would you dare take a client from brunette with faded balayage/ombré to turquoise blue…and then to intense magenta? That’s just what Gonzalez did without a worry for her client.

From Blonde Balayage to Turquoise to Red? Try the steps Redken national artist Alma Gonzalez uses.

To start, she brought up the blonde with Redken Flash Lift and 40-volume developer, then processed for 45 minutes. (Add a bonder based on your brand’s instructions.)

“I used the formula in key darker areas, then applied Post-Service pH-Bonder and followed up with two deep conditioning treatments,“ notes Gonzalez.

Next, she created a custom mix of Redken City Beats Highline Green and Broadway Blue (2:1).

Tip: To avoid the trashed-hair syndrome that can result from extreme lifting and following with permanent color, use direct dyes that are intended to fade in about eight weeks. You can also try your semi-permanent line.

Once the color fades back to blonde, there’s bound to be some green residue. Gonzalez removed it with an all-over misting of Redken Pre-Art Clarifying Treatment, processed for 10-minutes under the dryer. Then, she emulsified her shampoo, rinsed and applied Blonde Idol Base Breaker with 20-volume developer. After 10 minutes, she had a perfectly fresh palette. (Alternately, try a soap cap, followed by a formula that gently lifts up to two levels.)

“After towel drying, I mixed one part City Beats Midtown Magenta with two parts Big Apple Red and processed for 30 minutes,” adds Gonzalez. “Using direct dyes makes frequent color changes easy because they just fade away. If you were to use a bleach mixture and follow with an intense permanent color, removing it with lightener would sink the color molecules deeper into the cuticle.”

Maximum-Option Color

When going from box color to a fashion hue, lighten only as much as necessary. You’ll maintain the hair’s integrity and allow for maximum options later on. @Alma_Gonzalez13

When a client with red box color wants a rich shade with multiple highlights, combining a permanent new base with direct dyes that are used in foils allows future color changes. Options include changing the highlight shades, leaving highlights blonde once they fade away (avoid colors that leave green behind for this approach) or even returning to a more natural base. Here are Gonzalez’s formulas her the client who started with home hair color, was lifted to blonde and then got the new fashion shades.

To Remove Box Color: Redken Blonde Icing with 30-volume developer and pH-Bonder, processed for 45 minutes to yellow

Base: Chromatics 5N + 4NW with 10-volume developer in a 1:1 ratio.

Foiled Highlights: Alternate Midtown Magenta, Broadway Blue, Big Apple Red, Indigo Skyline

“Since these highlights will fade to an orangey-yellow, you can slightly cool them or allow them to continue to fade to blonder tones,” says Gonzalez.

The Ultimate Color-Change Challenge

Many colorists are afraid to take darker-haired clients to a true pearl blonde. What’s critical, says Gonzalez, is protecting the hair’s health and being ready to re-adjust the tone on the spot. She even fearlessly double-processes twice in one day.

“Even dark blonde has a lot of melanin in it, which makes it hard to get the yellow out,” observes Gonzales. “Be ready to adjust developer volumes and timing, and tone twice. Even then, you may not get it perfect the first time.” For a client whose hair was a natural Level 6/7, here’s her perfect formula fix:

Make clients with pearl-blonde ambitions happy by allowing time for same-day tonal adjustments. @Alma_Gonzalez13

Pre-Lightening Formulas: For the midshaft and ends, mix Blonde Icing with 30-volume developer in a 1:2 ratio. For the root/scalp area, use 20-volume developer. Process both for 45 full minutes, then rinse, treat the hair using Post-Service pH-Bonder; shampoo and deep condition twice. (Gonzalez uses Redken Chemistry).

Toner: Redken SEQ 09P (Pearl)

Notice that in the tri-photo shown here, the smaller shot in the lower left shows remaining yellow. To remove it during the same appointment, use a 20-volume developer lightening formula, apply it from scalp to ends and process for 30 additional minutes before toning again. Then follow with the complete post-color regimen. The results are a perfect pearlized shade.

“Always protect these delicate tones with shampoos like Color Extend and color-neutralizing conditioners that contain a hint of purple, like Blonde Idol,” adds Gonzalez.

As for “where can she go from here,” this client can now maintain her pearl blonde, move into more golden or ashier shades or even give silver a spin. Of course, she can also go darker—just be sure to do it gradually. Once a client has been this blonde, she won’t be happy with a too-dark tint-back, as hundreds of colorists can attest.

The weather is warming, moving us toward the lighter, brighter, beachy colors. Maybe your client’s ombre needs refreshing with tones of honey and sunshine. Getting those warmer, golden shades typically requires chemicals, peroxide and bleach, that can also damage and dry out their hair. Maybe your client is looking enviously at the beautiful trend of crayon colors. Nicole Richie and Katy Perry have dyed their hair bright shades of orange, purple and green. These vibrant, playful colors may also require some peroxide or bleach to do the magic.

Your clients may also be working out more, getting outside, washing their hair more, all of this leaching out important oils and nutrients that keep their hair healthy. This is a great time to stress the importance of hair care.

The answers are pretty simple. To counter the effect of all the summer looks and fun, your client needs to use quality conditioners and oils.

Natural oils give your client’s hair beautiful sheen and healthy weight and texture. The crayon colors look so much better when the hair is nourished and healthy. But make sure they know this is not solely a matter of appearance. Healthy hair will look great and it will feel great to the touch. Their hair will also be more flexible, less brittle and fragile. They’ll have fewer kinks and split ends. Their scalp can also be dried and damaged by peroxides and bleaches and need some attention.

No one has a better view of your client’s hair and scalp than you do. That’s almost certain. Take a moment to let them know what you’ve noticed and (gently) make some recommendations. You can suggest a regimen of great hair care products and a simple schedule. 

Our clients may have accepted the poor condition of their hair over time, not really recognizing the damage done. We may have noticed minor problems but in the rush of salon life we skip this extra step, not even realizing that an opportunity just flew past. That’s ok. Consider following up with your client, sending a quick email or text letting them know how much you appreciate their business and “here are some tips on how to care for those beautiful new colors after a day at the beach.”

As always, be open to change!

Spending all that time and money at the salon is always worth it when you walk out with a fresh new color. But unfortunately, nothing lasts forever – even professionally dyed hair.

While professionally dyed hair typically lasts anywhere from four to six weeks (give or take a few), there are some steps you can take to ensure your color lasts as long as possible. “Maintaining your color at home really starts as soon as you walk out of the salon,” says Heather Etchiso, Salon Glow hairstylist. Here’s what you can do to keep your hair color from fading, according to stylists.

Don’t shampoo for two full days after coloring
“The cuticle of your hair takes two full days to shut down, even with the use of neutralizers,” says colorist Lindsay Loo. You want to make sure the color is trapped in there before you do anything to it.

The less shampoo you use, the better
According to Loo, color oxidizes, so the more often you shampoo, the more likely it is to fade and turn brassy. If that’s not the tone you’re going for, you should aim for washing your hair about two to three times a week.

Stay away from products that contain harsh ingredients
In order to make your hair color last, it’s important to keep it moisturized. Using products that contain sulfates dries the hair out, which makes it harder for your hair to hold on to color. “To be proactive, it’s important to use good professional products that don’t have sulfates,” says Gina Rivera, hair expert and founder of Phenix Salon Suites. Products that contain collagen, biotin, and vitamin B can help to keep your hair healthy and hydrated.

Protect your hair from the sun
One of the most crucial ways to protect your hair color by wearing a hat or a scarf when you’re spending a good amount of time in the sun. Licensed cosmetologist Hollee Wood also recommends hair products that contain UV protection. “My favorite is Bumble and bumble. Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer,” she says. “It protects and smooths the hair without weighing it down.”

Always rinse your hair after going for a swim
It’s especially important to take extra care of your hair during the summer months if you want the color to last. As celebrity hairstylist Paul Labrecque says, “Sun, chlorine, and salt can all cause the color to oxidize and fade rapidly, especially when you’re exposed to all three at once. They impact your strands in a similar way that bleach does.” Be sure to rinse your hair after a swim, regardless of whether you’re in the ocean or a pool. If you’re at the beach, Labrecque recommends taking a few liters or regular water with you. That way, you can immediately wash any salt out of your hair.

Wash your hair with cool water
One of the biggest mistakes people make after getting their hair dyed is washing with hot water. According to Chaz Dean, celebrity hairstylist and founder of WEN®, this opens the cuticle, releases the color, and then sends that color right down the drain. “[Washing will cool water] will keep the cuticle closed and help prevent water from entering the hair shaft where it strips the color,” Dean says.

Schedule a toner or gloss six weeks after you get your hair colored
“Natural colors fade and need refreshing just like a nail appointment,” says celebrity stylist, Kendall Dorsey. This is something you want to consider doing, especially if you got your hair done at the salon.

xx, The FabFitFun Team

You were recently named a spokesperson for 3Deluxe. Can you tell us about that?

I’m so excited to be a spokesperson and get behind such an incredible product. 3Deluxe USA is a color line that has come out of Italy. They have been around for about ten years and they’ve sold over 22 million tubes of color. About 6 months ago, we were able to become the sole distributors for North and South America. We’re super excited about it, it’s an incredible product.

Hairdressers get so used to what they’re using and they’re often creatures of habits, but it’s been really exciting to introduce 3Deluxe to our stylists. We have over 200 salon professionals who’ve already changed to 3Deluxe. The color line has 55 shades and they’re constantly adding more and more. It can be used as a permanent, semi or demi permanent hair color. You don’t have to use several different lines, so it’s really beneficial to the stylist. And the tubes are almost double the size of most colors that are sold right now so they’re getting more bang for their buck.

You had said via email that you wanted to talk about the idea that women over 40 shouldn’t wear the same hair color they did in their 20s. What should we know about this?

I don’t necessarily think you can’t wear the same hair color, especially now that women and older women, too, are getting away with fun, vibrant colors that weren’t as accepted a few years ago. What was seen as kind of punk is now more accepted. For women over 40, take, for instance, Sharon Osbourne’s red hair. That’s something she could have done in her 20s, and she’s now doing it in her 60s and she looks great. I think the main thing is to have a consultation with your stylist to guide you as to what’s becoming. As we get older, our coloring can change a little and you might get unwanted wrinkles, and sometimes hair color can make those areas more prominent. There’s room where you do have to be careful, but to go as far as saying that you can’t use the same hair color, I feel like your stylist can help guide you. I think your cut matters more than your color, too.

How can they go about finding that cut and color that’s most flattering?

They should just go in and sit down with their stylist. The client should give an idea of what they want, and then the stylist guides them and studies their face and coloring and makes recommendations on where the cut should lay that’s most flattering. For the color, looking at the eyes and skin and asking them what their wardrobe is like, that’s a big factor. It’s all about the consultation with your stylist.

Going back to the women over 40 idea, who are some celebrities that you think are doing that well?

Of course, Jennifer Aniston! She always does what’s becoming on her and her hair always looks amazing. And I mentioned Sharon Osbourne, what a class act she is. The color and cut couldn’t be more perfect for her. She is dead spot on and looks absolutely terrific.

Is there anything else you’d like to add?

I do want to say that now that we’re at the end of summer, throughout the season you’ve seen people going lighter and now they’re starting to want to go darker for fall. You’re seeing a lot of color correction, and 3Deluxe is so loaded with fatty oils and essential oils that it really, really strengthens the hair and puts a lot of moisture in the hair. It can 100% affect the results of your color. The stronger your hair is, the better health it’s in. And with 3Deluxe’s shine and coverage, there isn’t a product out there that’s close to it – and I’ve been doing hair for 25 years and I’ve tried every product out there.

We go to the gym to look great. We also want to look great when we go to the gym.

So, how serious can we be about getting a great workout when we’re worried about our hair? The truth is that the two go together quite nicely. You can easily follow the trends while doing all those crunches, butterflies and lunges. In fact, some of the hottest styles feature a somewhat undone look and that makes it all the easier to nail the latest looks at the gym.

What you don’t want to do is wash your hair beforehand. That may sound obvious for a number of reasons…why wash your hair before a workout? But the impulse may be to wash if you’re shooting for the perfect ‘do. The reality is that if we want our hair to look great with some fullness that can stay a little loose without falling apart during a workout, we skip the shower. Freshly shampooed and dried, hair can be slippery and, particularly at the gym where you’re moving around a lot, that will make it more difficult for a loose braid or ponytail to hold. So, hold off on the shower.

Ponies, chignons and braids are among the hottest styles for any time of day this season and, it just so happens, they can all perform really well at the gym. In fact, it’s hard to imagine trending ‘dos that are better for a workout. Short hair, too, is in and easier at the gym, for obvious reasons, but not essential. The common thread is to keep it loose. Create some volume before you execute that braid or ponytail.

To make it even easier for the hair to keep its hold, use moose or gel before you style and some volume-lifting powder at the roots. Those treatments will give your hair the promised latest looks and some texture and hold to that ponytail, bun or braid for more staying power.

Another tip for the short term, when you need to wash your hair but don’t want to lose the holding power, use one of the popular dry shampoos. These will take out some of the oily moisture, and that, also, can add to the volume and the texture that will give your hair added hold.

Nailing these trends, gather your ponytail toward the nape of the neck. Low is in. Of course, you can also go from here to a twist or bun. For braids, go with a fishtail, again keeping it loose.

As always, be open to change!